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Whenever curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.